NEWS

The Textile Society’s
Manchester Antique Textile Fair
Sunday 7th March 2010
Antique and Vintage Costumes and Textiles.
Armitage Centre, Moseley Road, Fallowfield, Manchester M14 6HE
10 – 4.30 (trade 8.30)
£6 (Trade £10)
£4 full time students and snr citizens
www.textilesociety.org.uk or e Deborah Roberts atf@textilesociety.org.uk or 077193 47512
The Textile Society’s London Antique Textile Fair
Sunday 26 September 2010 at Kensington Town Hall
10.30 – 4.30 (trade 9.30)
The Textile Society is launching its’ first London Antique Textile Fair
to compliment the highly successful and long running Manchester Fair, now in its eighteenth year. Over 100 dealers from the UK and Europe will assemble during London Design Week selling good quality worldwide antique costumes and textiles from the 17th century to the 1970’s. Rugs pre 1950’s and good vintage dress and accessories will also be sold. There will be conservators and dealers in secondhand and new books.
For further information please look at our website www.textilesociety.org.uk or e mail Kay Bryant, Fair organiser at atf@textilesociety.org.uk or phone her on 01491 572126
NEW STUDY DAYS with Heather Toomer for The Costume Society and the Royal School of Needlework
For the Royal School of Needlework
Venue: Royal School of Needlework, Apartment 12A, Hampton Court Palace, Surrey, KT8 9AU.
Time: 10.30 – 16.30
Tickets: £65 (Refreshments not included)
For further details and booking contact Gill Holdsworth on 020 3166 6937 or Gill.Holdsworth@royal-needlework.org.uk
Date:Wednesday 24 March 2010: 19th-century whiteworked costume accessories
After a brief reminder of 18th-century whitework, this day will follow the changes in whiteworked costume accessories fashionable in the 19th century from the simplicity of neo-classical and repetitive floral designs of the early years, through the rococo fashions of the 1820s-40s to the baroque of the second half of the century. The day will alternate slide lectures showing the exquisite detail of the embroideries and their use in fashion through portraiture and fashion plates with time to study many original examples from the tutor’s collection.
Date: Saturday 17 July 2010: Whitework study day
This day will provide an introduction to the incredible wealth of whitework embroideries used in fashion from the late 16th century to late 19th century. It will discuss changes in whitework types and designs fashionable through the period from early geometric cutworks to elaborate 18th-century Dresden works imitating lace and 19th-century Ayrshire work and broderie anglaise and will show through portraits and fashion plates how they were worn at different times. The day will alternate slide lectures with time to study a wide range of original examples from the tutor’s collection.
Royal School Study day programmes in full
Wednesday 24 March 2010
Study day on 19th century whiteworked costume accessories
The day will be divided into six sessions of 3 slide lectures alternating with periods in which students can study and discuss original examples from the tutor’s collection.
Lecture 1: a brief review of 18th-century whiteworks and the new accessories of the 19th century
This lecture will start with a very brief reminder of the dress and whiteworked costume accessories fashionable in the 18th century, noting particularly ‘Dresden lace’, the major whitework of the mid century worked in the elaborate rococo style, and the later trend towards simpler designs and the introduction of tambour work. The story will then be continued through the 1790s and early 1800s as new accessories, particularly chemisettes and shawls, were introduced to complement the neo-classical dress of the period.
Differences in embroidery techniques used on the muslin dresses fashionable at the time and on smaller scale accessories will be included,
Study of tamboured whiteworks, kerchiefs, early chemisettes and other accessories from the 1790s -1810s.
Lecture 2: the 1820s-40s; whitework at its most prolific
As dress grew more elaborate in the 1820s-30s, so did the whiteworked accessories. Pelerines with two or three layers spread over the fashionable wide, high shoulder line only to become more restrained in the late 1830s-40s. Early-19th century neo-classical or trailing sprig designs also gave way to fuller floral designs taken up particularly in our Ayrshire industry. Many of these were in a revived rococo style with drawn- or pulled-thread work or needlepoint filling stitches: differences between these and the earlier Dresden work will be discussed.
Lunch
Study of whiteworked pelerines, fichus, chemisettes etc. from the 1820s-40s
Lecture 3: the second half of the 19th century
Although whiteworked accessories had less appeal in the later 19th century, chemisettes continued to be worn and were accompanied by white undersleeves that covered the lower arms and wrists beneath shorter dress sleeves while high necklines and longer sleeves were often finished with whiteworked collars and cuffs. Embroidery styles continued to change with broderie anglaise becoming popular from the late 1840s onwards. At the same time, finer embroideries becames richer in design and more sculpted in appearance or were teamed with lace insertions. Machine copies, first devised in the early 19th century, improved progressively and had a major impact on the hand industries.
Study of whiteworked chemisettes, undersleeves, collars, cuffs, mantles and machine whiteworks from the 1840s-1890s.
Students will find a magnifying glass helpful
Royal School of Needlework Saturday 17 July 2010
Whitework study day
The day will be divided into six sessions of 3 slide lectures alternating with periods in which students can study and discuss original examples from the tutor’s collection.
Lecture 1: a brief introduction to the changing uses and styles of whitework in fashion from the late 16th to 19th centuries
This lecture explores the way whitework evolved from the late 16th century through to the 19th century. In particular it follows its development into needlepoint lace in the early period, the imitation of lace by whiteworks including Dresden work in the 18th century, the development of Ayrshire work in the early 19th century and the gradual changes in design and stitching that occurred throughout the period.
Study of early cutworks and geometric-styled needlepoints; Dresden and other 18th-century whiteworks and contemporary laces; tamboured whitework and Ayrshire work.
Lecture 2: the 18th century
This lecture looks at 18th-century whitework in a little more depth. In particular it explores the changing use of whiteworks in fashion through the century from their restriction to accessories such as kerchiefs, aprons and sleeve ruffles to their use in whole dresses towards the end of the century. Changes in design and stitching are also considered.
Lunch
Study of a selection of 18th century kerchiefs, aprons and sleeve ruffles.
Lecture 3: the 19th century
This lecture looks at 19th-century whitework in a little more depth as pelerines, chemisettes, collars, cuffs and undersleeves replaced the 18th-century adult accessories and whiteworked christening robes became fashionable. Changing fashions in embroidery types from tambour work and Ayrshire work to broderie anglaise and sculpted baroque works of the second half of the century are also disussed.
Study of a selection of whiteworked chemisettes, pelerines, collars, cuffs and undersleeves.)
Students will find a magnifying glass helpful